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Qualicum Where the Dog Salmon Run

April 22nd, 2008

Dog Salmon! Hard to imagine what it might look like. Four-legged fish with floppy ears running up and down the beach! I don’t think so.

The Coast Salish (First Nation people) on Vancouver Island called Chum or Keta Salmon, Dog Salmon. Chum salmon develop a very hooked jaw with fierce teeth at spawning time. Perhaps that is why they were called Dog Salmon. Chum, on average, weigh eight to ten pounds and measure about 40 inches in length. Their ocean coloration of silvery blue green changes at spawning time to splotchy purplish red and with distinct yellow and pink vertical bars on their sides. They are one ugly fish!

When we arrive at Qualicum Beach (which means, “where the dog salmon run”), the last image that comes to mind is Dog Salmon. Qualicum Beach is a quaint village in the middle of absolute paradise. Everything is beautiful from the endless expansive sandy and pebble beaches to the beautiful snow-capped mountains that provide a backdrop to the area. The town has worked hard preserving its heritage which is obvious walking through the downtown area. A heritage style design is predominant, providing a friendly village atmosphere. Everywhere we go from the spectacular heritage designed Quality Foods grocery store to the funky Smithford’s, we meet very friendly people.

The town hall in Qualicum Beach
Photo by Ron Kirstein

Finding a place to stay is not difficult. The area has an abundance of accommodations from bed and breakfasts to motels and resorts. We chose the Seaview Beach Resort because we are having a family get-together. The quaint cottages range from 1-3 bedrooms and come fully equipped. When we walk out our door, within seconds, we are right on the beach. The Seaview is well off the road and sits among modern residential properties. It is very quiet and peaceful. Across the road we discover a large Federal Wild Life Sanctuary. As we walk down the beach and the roadway we are drooling over incredible new oceanfront homes. My wife is scoping out the fire pit where she will roast her marsh mellows just as soon as the sun goes down.

One of the beautiful homes along the sea shore
Photo by Ron Kirstein

Now we are settled in to our cabin by the sea. Besides the obvious, we check around to see what we can do while we are in paradise. Locals inform us that you can beach walk almost continuously for about 50Km (30 miles) along the coast line with the exception of interruptions by two rivers, the Englishman and French Creek. When the tide goes out, it feels like we can walk half-way to the mainland.

Everywhere you go in Qualicum you see immaculate gardens, so we decided to check out some of the attractions. Milner Gardens and Woodlands is a rare property perched on the shores of the Strait of Georgia. It has a 10 acre garden complete with a character home that is used primarily as a tea-house. The garden is surrounded by 60 additional acres of Coastal Douglas fir. Malaspina-University College acquired the site from Veronica Milner in 1996. Veronica’s mother was a cousin of Winston Churchill. Much of the Royal family has visited or stayed at the gardens.

From the tea-room and gardens you can enjoy super-natural views of Georgia Strait and the Coastal Mountains on the Mainland. The Gardens and Woodland is operated by a non-profit horticultural society with a mission to maintain and restore the gardens and buildings. Volunteers and students carry out much of the maintenance of the gardens under the supervision of horticulture staff. I recommend these gardens and walks through the woodlands.

Looking for a tourist trap? Well, the best little tourist trap in BC is the Old Country Market in Coombs. Just a few kilometers out of Qualicum you will find a country market with goats living on the roof. This eclectic market has something for everyone. My favourite is the ice cream bar. It is no ordinary ice cream bar. It is about 40 feet long and offers many choices of ice cream, sorbet and gelato. A single cone cost me just $3.00 and I swear that it had a pound of ice cream in it. After eating the mound on top, I gobbled ice cream to the very bottom of the waffle cone. I consider myself an ice cream aficionado and I have never seen a place so generous. This is a shop till you drop market with vegetables, meats, food specialties, clothes, toys, unique gifts and a whole lot more. It also has a very fine restaurant which seems to efficiently serve a never-ending line-up. It has my vote for the best little tourist trap in the world!

The area boasts some of the best of BC Provincial Parks. If you like to camp, hike, explore the beach or visit spectacular waterfalls you should check out Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park, Englishman River Falls Provincial Park, Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park and Cathedral Grove Provincial Park. Other attractions can be found throughout the area by checking the web at http://tourismmall.victoria.bc.ca/aavanisle/pqattract.htm

Ron Kirstein is the owner of a Canadian Travel & Tourism Web
site (since 1995). Ron has traveled the length and breadth
of Vancouver Island BC Canada in search of
adventures; see http://tourismmall.victoria.bc.ca/travelmagazine

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Guanajuato Mexico, Land Of History

April 14th, 2008

The history of Mexico is full of vibrant episodes along its history; beginning with the first indigenous settlers arriving from the north of the continent, continuing with the Colonial period started by the arrival and occupation of the lands that are now part of Mexico by the Spaniard soldiers and missionaries. And stretching until our modern days with all its contradictions and beauties; but with its people always maintaining the peculiar identity that has identified them through the centuries.

Among the many Mexican cities that are vivid testimonies of periods of this history, there is one that has, along with history, a very particular charm and identity.

This city is called Guanajuato and is situated 400 km north of Mexico City, near the geographical center of the Republic. It has a pretty mild climate with a spring-like weather during most of the year.

Guanajuato is not a big city and its origins go back to the settling of the first Spaniard explorers in the XVI century, who found and exploded the huge richness of the hills that surround this peculiar town. This richness of silver and gold of its mines was of such importance to the Spanish Crown that the city was given the title of “Real de Minas” and its fame, along with its gold, traveled all over the world.

The strange topography of the city is one of the main sources of its peculiarities. All of the houses and buildings were built on the skirts of hills and together form a conglomerate that reminds you of a “cubist” painting by Picasso, with all those square houses in different levels, as in an artist canvas, and a maze of alleys barely separating each house from the other.

Guanajuato was not only witness of great richness but also was one of the starting spots of the Insurgent revolution leading to the independence of the country. The first major battle of this struggle for freedom against the Spanish Crown took place in this city, more specifically at the building known has the “Alhondiga de Granaditas”. This is a huge building that used to be a corn and wheat depot and that, considering the situation of the insurrection, was used by the Spaniards and their alleys has a refuge during the battle. At the end Insurgents conquered the “Alhondiga” thanks to the local hero known as “El Pipila”, who burned the main entrance door protecting himself from the bullets fired from above with a stone plate laced to his back.

This along with other vibrant episodes of Mexican history have made of Guanajuato an important historical place to visit by many people around the world, that now can enjoy the tourist vocation of the city with its many hotels and amenities.

Omar Ferro; freelance travel writer and explorer of world’s interesting and beautiful places. Want to learn more about Guanajuato? You can visit:

http://takeoff.to/Guanajuato-Mexico

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The Pacific Rim

March 26th, 2008

Terrific Tofino

The Esowista Peninsula is perched in the edge of the North America Continent. Next stop Japan! At the north end of the Peninsula is the town of Tofino, located in a protected harbour. Just to the North, you will also find protected waters, and directly offshore is the Wild West Coast.

The constant ocean surge in this area keeps the surf breaking on expansive white sandy beaches. In winter, waves can reach up to 50 feet in height! North of Tofino, you’ll find the Ahousaht First Nations Community, Cougar Annie’s Gardens and Hot Springs Cove, and just across the harbour you’ll find Optisat First Nations Village on Meares Island.

Before you enjoy all the exciting tourist activities Tofino has to offer, you must first find a place to stay. Since nearly one million visitors flock to this paradise each summer, it is best to book in advance.

Clayoquot-Orca Lodge

If you are looking for a good value, check out the Clayoquot-Orca Lodge. It’s centrally located on the East Side of Highway 4, just as you approach Tofino, and close to all the major beaches. Clayoquot-Orca is a unique destination resort featuring on-site Eco Experience on 4 acres of old growth rain forest. Well groomed trails lead to Jensen Bay, a waterfront Bird Sanctuary, while other trails will lead you throughout the rainforest. The Lodge has comfortable, spacious ensuite rooms, some with private hot tubs. There is a licensed piano lounge, ‘the Chuckling Oyster’ which is also pet friendly. It’s full of games and activities and has a nice fireplace to curl up beside on summer evenings.

Olivia, the owner/operator of Clayoquot-Orca is a unique character who’s dedicated to ensuring you have a special holiday. She quite regularly helps guests plan their days and book their chosen activities. Many people who’ve stayed here have written to say their stay in Tofino was the highlight of their trip. Olivia is currently adding an additional 30 rooms to the Lodge. We stayed in a spacious suite that had two Queen sized beds and a pullout couch in it. The room could have easily handled six people and there was lots of room to relax at the end of a busy day.

The Lodge also has a dining room that operates throughout the peak tourist season with an attached Solarium where guests can dine with their pets. Now that is pet friendly! Chloe is the host pet. The highway sign proudly boasts that the Clayoquot-Orca Lodge was voted #1 for best-value accommodation in the Tofino area.

Ron Kirstein is the owner of a Canadian Travel & Tourism Web
site (since 1995). Ron has traveled the length and breadth
of Vancouver Island BC Canada in search of
adventures; see http://tourismmall.victoria.bc.ca/travelmagazine

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